Wal Mart of Dongguan
I made the trek! In need of more things for my new apartment, I was able to talk my driver (an exercise in itself, since he doesn’t speak English, and my Chinese is pathetic!) into a stop the other night to assist my needs.
I convinced him to try Wal Mart the Supercenter of Dongguan.
Well, it was similar and different than any other Wal Mart I had ever been in.
No big gray box here.
First, I bet there were only 30 parking spaces. No huge lot in front. Of course, that is the case everywhere here. Cars are for the rich, and most transport by other means. There were, however, too many cars for the few spaces available. We had to wait and squeeze into a space. I could barely get out.
The entry was a big three-story structure that looked huge. Only later did I realize that the Wal Mart was only on the first floor, and shops were on the other floors.
The next, and maybe most striking difference had to be the greeter. Yes, they were consistent in the theme with a greeter at the entry, but she was sure younger than any greeter I had ever seen at a Wal Mart before!
Then, The layout hits you. It is low ceiling type store, and you have to maneuver through the clothing to get to the rest. So the feel was much different. Similarities in shelving and stock were prevalent. Of course, Chinese characters replaced English. And the help was a lot more than any store I had ever been around. On many aisles, I bet there were five salesgirls anxious to help. Unfortunately, none spoke English!
As I mentioned, my driver’s English was pretty limited too. I was doing pretty well with finding most everything. But I can tell you the differences in the way they do things here makes it pretty difficult. For example, bedding here is usually just a comforter type layer over the fitted bed sheet. I always end up getting up three to four times a night to get it off the floor and spread over the bed again. Pretty frustrating!
Well, wanting to buy a sheet to spread over the fitted bed sheet was an exercise in itself. Even when I finally found one, they didn’t want to sell it to me, because “I already had all I needed”. It took a few calls to someone to translate before I could finally understand why they wouldn’t sell to me, and to then finally convince them that, in fact, I really did want that sheet! FRUSTRATING!
At other times, it went great. I slapped my face like in Home Alone, and a young lady turned quickly and pulled after-shave right from a shelf. A desired hair dryer was a little more difficult. First they wanted to sell me muse, then a hairbrush, then something else entirely, so back to the phone. Of course, even my translator doesn’t do so well, and I ended up with some kind of shower hose. Back to the phone!
All in all, pretty good though. Wal Mart had most everything. The grocery area had more things I had never heard or seen before. I saw once on a documentary about Wal Mart in China that a single store sells about $6US per visitor, versus around $36US per visitor in the States. And they sell 18,000 watermelons a day in a single store. There were a lot of people there!
I’ve now been to Wal Mart of Dongguan, China. Who woulda ever thought I would be shopping there. Next it’s the new Pizza Hut across the street!!
I'm in My New Apartment
I moved in! I now live in New World Garden! It was quick but I got in last night. Even had water. Air conditioner even leaked a lot of water too. But I'm getting settled. Still a lot more to do, but at least I'm in. Busy day, so more info later.
Living Room and balcony at 16th floor.
View from my bedroom.
Master bedroom with new bed.
Guard on ground floor to my new apartment.
Happy Birthday
Vicky
You have heard me mention Miss Vicky in many of my comments since arriving in China. She is the manager of the finishing department of Decca, my key interpreter, co-worker, and has become a good friend. Today is Vicky's birthday. She says she is older than I have guessed, so I have no idea how many candles to use. But she is off in the Caribbean anyway today. Cake will have to wait. Yes, she is on a cruise for the week around the Bahamas.
So Happy Birtday Vicky! May you have a great day and great week!
Vicky Leung and Gene Bryson at Decca office in Dahlingshan, Dongguan, China. By the way, I am the one sitting. Happy Birthday Vicky!!
McDonald's of Dahlingshan. Downtown near the department stores and main city square. Located in Dongguan City, Guangdong Province
Round Three
Well, I couldn’t get into my apartment, so I figured I may as well play golf.
And the Saturday afternoon forecast certainly sounded better than Sunday’s.
So it was off for my first afternoon round in China.
It was a little hot though at 2:00 PM. At least I did get to play with two Chinese gentlemen that spoke a lot of English. One was in fact a sales representative for 3M. The other was a customer in the electronics industry. They weren’t great golfers, but they were enjoyable golfers and were in no rush. Which in this heat was just fine with me.
I even got into the Chinese way of carrying my umbrella in the sun. It sure feels better on the back than letting the sun beat you down. And these guys took a nice break after nine holes. I sure needed that too. They did surprise me when after the tenth, they announced they were cutting their round short and playing back to the clubhouse. We said farewells, and I decided to play on with my caddy. Caddy #8 was good. Again the bag was bigger than her.
By this time after 5 PM the sun had dropped enough for the cool afternoon breezes to assist in making it quite comfortable for play. I think I liked this better than starting in the morning, where as you tire near the back nine, it just keeps getting hotter toward mid-day.
The golf was ugly though. The course was extremely muddy and wet. I quit keeping score early. Seems when I don’t play much, I start out fairly good the first couple of rounds and get worse as I start trying to make adjustments myself. I really need a pro to help with that.
But all in all, a very relaxing and enjoyable round. And McDonald’s was even open after golf this week! I needed that Double Cheeseburger!
Floods Hit China
Okay, I’m not in peril.
Many of you have probably heard about the devastating flooding happening in China.
It is taking its toll in human life and livelihood for thousands of Chinese.
And although we have certainly endured the elements here too, most flooding is occurring to the west and north of my location.
I am in Guangdong Province along the Pearl River Delta. That is just up the river from Hong Kong. There is widespread flooding in the region, but at least not as much in the Dongguan city where I reside and work. Guangdong is a heavy industrial area, and shipments are being impacted. Rail travel is difficult too. But our plant seems to be immune to most problems. I did miss the ABC Evening News again today though, since lightning knocked out the TV antenna again.
Still, I have been impacted. I had planned to move into my new apartment today. It’s already under lease to me, and I was ready to go. But the rains have made living in the New World Garden complex not so desirable right now. Not devastating, mind you, but enough of a problem to stall my plans.
It seems the local water supply has been interrupted due to the high water around the water source or pumping station. That means no water to my apartment! I think I’ll just wait a few days.
CUBA
Now I can’t begin to tell you who is playing this game, but this is not a basketball game between Cuba and the People’s Republic of China.
That’s what I thought it was when I first crossed the channel surfing the TV one night.
But then the crowd caught my attention.
But then everyone playing is definitely Chinese.
From what I can gather, CUBA is Chinese University Basketball Association or the equivalent of the NCAA.
But what is really interesting is the organization of this crowd. Now can you see the Duke Rowdies dressing up to sit like this for a game? (Double click to blowup for a closer look.) The Dukies may be coordinated, but they have nothing on CUBA. Notice the colors are the coordinated uniforms by the fans. They have a different dance group for every timeout. There are coordinated huge flags paraded across the court regularly. And the crowd has banners they hold up frequently in unison to the situation. Unbelievably coordinated! And the players are pretty good too!
Link to the website: http://www.china.org.cn/english/features/2004-2005cba/118957.htm
CUBA - Coordinated crowd participation! and basketball follows.
Zhuzhu - this smiling little lady (with the incredible forearms) is our Masseuse! She is about 5'5" and literally lifts me off the table to stretch my back!
News of the Week
Busy week here this week.
Most everyone is returning from a successful NEOCON show in Chicago.
Excitement is that Decca Contract won Best Large Showroom.
Nice accomplishment for Grand Opening!
And work is busy with new tests and quality issues (unfortunately).
Good news on the horizon though. I checked my apartment again yesterday, and should be moving into it in a few days!! (I will include picture below.) Yes! Then I’ll be in ex-pat community and near bars, restaurants, and Oliver’s – all with Western food!
I have had the pleasure of a couple of Americans from Imperial Woodworking. They represent Decca with architectural millwork projects in the States. Nice to have Riley and Paul around for some American humor!
And oh yes, I had another massage last night! Eat your heart out Americans. Zhuzhu is simply amazing. With my bad back I get a little concerned at times, but it sure feels better afterward!! Today you get a treat in seeing a picture of her too. That was her smiling above.
Take care friends! Keep writing!
Gene
New World Garden - Building 5 - my future home is on the front corner of floor 16
Pigeons and Frogs
I hate to write so much about meals here, but Chinese food is certainly a large part of the culture - at least what I’m experiencing!
And boy, did I experience it today!!
Invited to visit a vendor of finishing chemicals, I had the fortune of hoping in a Land Rover this morning for a two-hour jaunt across the countryside. Unfortunately, this wasn’t a new Land Rover. I don’t think it had any suspension left – no wonder with the cuts in the road that can be six-inch deep troughs for no apparent reason. And I don’t think the back seat had springs; and by the cloth cover draped over the seat, probably no upholstery underneath either. We may have been riding on the floorboard. My knees seemed like they were over my head. What a great way to ride! At least the A/C worked. The last vendor to take us on a visit lost their air about a 1/3 of the way there! Don’t ya know that was pleasant?
We arrived just in time for lunch and were marched directly to the management dining hall. It was nothing like the posh quarters of Decca. There must have been eight large round tables in a rather modern setting. Nothing contemporary, mind you, just efficient.
As we started the meal, I was at least offered Coke and a fork. But I’m cool now, and just stayed with the chopsticks. Next came the soup, which was good. I was told it was “steer” something. I decided not to ask further.
But as the platters started piling up on the lazy Susan, I noticed several things I knew, or thought I knew. The broccoli with octopus was good. The shrimp were steamed nicely, but I peeled off the heads. They probably think I wasted a bunch of shrimp. But then I noticed a platter of mussel like meat, but had no idea what it was. Of course everyone immediately spun the lazy Susan to me and offered me FROG!! And I don’t mean frog legs either!! They were not as good as frog legs, but okay. I couldn’t help again but think about my good friend Edna, and how I cut her frog in biology class in high school, because she couldn’t do it. I was sure thinking about that frog today, wondering if Mr. Banks fried up our left overs from class after we were done! Anybody know?
But then the highlight was spun around to me for a second time. I had thought it was fried chicken when it first came by, but it sure seemed to have a lot of legs and I had originally passed up when I didn’t see any white meat. Of course everyone wanted the American to try PIGEON! Yes, I said Pigeon! I always find it best just to dig in quickly and don’t think about it! So I relented. And you know, it tasted pretty good. I think that my pleasure rather surprised my hosts. But you know what really got me then: I don’t think anyone else had any! “Yea, get the American to be a sucker and try it! But we’re not eating it!” Well, I guess I showed them! I even kept it down for the return trip in the back seat of that Land Rover!
Lunch - that's pigeon that looks like fried chicken, frog to the right above it, and octopus on the left with one piece of broccoli left.
Camdor Harbor Golf Pictures
Hey, I took my camera to Camdor Harbor Golf Club this week! Many of you have asked for photos. Well, below are pictures, a shorter article about Round Two, followed by a few more pics. For all my pictures from Camdor Harbor, you can click the "Camdor Harbour Golf" link under
Links, or just go to :
http://www.dotphoto.com/go.asp?l=abrysoninchina&p=1A55&AID=2545540
Enjoy!
Gene
The entry to club - See I told ya there were Greek warriors and goddesses at the entry to the golf club! (note building under construction in background)
Greek warrior stand at entry
Tee Off
The Camdor Harbor Windmill
Down the fairway
Round Two
Father’s Day, 2005.
And, of course, all Dad’s play golf today.
Right?
I did! And this time I remembered my camera too!
I played Camdor Harbor Golf Club once again! Two Sunday’s in a row. I’m getting to be a regular. Even the American I had met last time was there once again. I sat and had a good time talking with Herb and his family in the café before the round. I understand why I see the family there so often now too. His brother-in-law (met his wife in Taiwan when he was in Air Force) owns the club, and he and his family are here for an extended vacation. They are even staying upstairs over the Clubhouse. Great to have a chance to converse with Americans today!!
When the hostess called me from the café, I got paired with a group of Japanese who evidently have just moved to the Dahlingshan area like me. There were two groups with me assigned to the group of three to make a foursome. And they understood fairly good English!
Round was very enjoyable. The wind even blew making it almost bearable. At least until the sun came out about the 14th hole, and then it became brutal. Somehow I survived. On about the 17th hole, I raced to one of the few good benches on the course. I actually felt better when two of the older Japanese gentlemen stumbled over me to sit on the bench too. I wasn’t the only one tired!
Worse part about the round though, was no Caddy #107. I requested her again, and never understood why, but I was paired this time with Caddy #81. I think my golf bag was bigger than Caddy #81. Not nearly the same personality either. Didn’t even get those great dim sum treats today. I couldn’t’ even get her to get a Coke for me. And after the round, most of the Japanese were complaining that our caddies didn’t do a very good job searching for golf balls. I have to agree that #81 didn’t. She did surprise me by pulling my Nike ball out of a lake, but otherwise I must have lost a sleeve from no one watching errant tee shots. I needed my ole partner Jim Kraft. He always said to let him watch, if we would listen. He had good eyes. I don’t think I can see a golf ball past 150 yards anymore.
At least I did par more holes. I had about four pars somehow. I think I was getting used to the slow greens, and made several one putts. Score was probably worse though. A lot more “others” today! I found more water than I remembered. Oh well, I got to play.
And my driver suggested food afterward! Boy did I need to hear that. No dim sum, and I had passed on the club sandwich this week. I immediately suggested McDonald’s. Can’t believe I get excited over Mickey D’s now! Would have been my second time in a couple of days. Yea, I said, “would have”. We pulled up and I thought it was odd that there were no cars in front. As I got out, it looked even more vacant inside. I noticed a posted sign at the door, but my driver seemed oblivious of it. He kept trying to get me in until I pointed to it. He then shrugged his shoulders. I didn’t need to see that!
He did do a good job of sign language when we got back in the van. He pointed to the dome light, turned it on and then off, and pointed back at McDonald’s. I then realized there was no power! Looking at the next few stores, it looked like power must be off in all of downtown. Can you believe it! I finally get to McDonald’s, and I can’t get in because there is no power!!
Well, enjoy the pics! See link at right, and more info about link in later post.
Mr. Timuro, one of my golf partners
Golf partner after round
The payoff
Club hostess
So is it a pigeon or dove?
Okay, I forgot to take my camera for the article "See Food" below, but I decided to at least share the Decca aquarium in the "hotel" with our own Nemo fish!
See Food
As I’ve mentioned before, Thursday nights can be special here, because we often take a break from the “hotel” and get out “on the town” for dinner.
Last night was another breakaway that continued to provide new experiences.
I had asked about the chance to get out earlier in the day, and it wasn’t long before we had a van of six ready to go. Tony, our Operations VP was driving. I have mentioned his driving skills before, when I talked about his telling me he wouldn’t run a red light that day, only because I was riding along!! Well, the challenges last night were tough too. The weather was very wet and in the darkness it is pretty tough to see motorcycles without lights, and the many pedestrians always in the road. People are worse than chickens here about having to cross a road, and in many areas they just walk in the road ignoring the sidewalks altogether. Last night was no exception. I’m glad the Chinese have good eyesight! He was good to slow at many risky situations, but did hit a large brick in the road. And I made the mistake of sitting shotgun again!
But off to dinner; we were going to Dongguan City. When we pulled up to the Dongguan Exhibition International Hotel (beside the exhibition hall), I thought we were at the Mandalay Bay. It was a large imposing hotel in a semi-circle and heavily lit for the night. The hotel’s features didn’t stop on the outside either. The lobby was huge. It must have been a hundred yards wide with an open atrium of about five floors. Although pretty, it is a little cold in the mix of styles and colors, but they didn’t scrimp on use of marble.
I knew immediately that I had made a big mistake. Being a little rainy I had decided against bringing my camera. I regretted that decision all night, and now I don’t have pictures to post! You’ll just have to put up with my banter about the evening. Sorry bout that.
Two large aquariums grab your attention entering the hotel. The first is a full round aquarium with a top that extends over your head in a funnel like fashion. Fish were colorful and plentiful. But the plants inside were obviously fake green adaptations that looked out of place in water. The second aquarium was more impressive. It was a long wide sea aquarium with many rocks for manta rays to nest and large sea turtles to traverse. At least three sharks of about three feet long were most popular with guests.
But it is the restaurant its multitude of aquariums that was even more impressive. As you enter the hall of the restaurant, a large display case exhibits two large shark fins, and a multitude of smaller fins. I’m not sure if I’ve had shark fin soup, and may have even had it last night, but I know its popular here, and thus the exhibit to show off some of their collection.
On back about twenty feet, was where the hall split to two glass doorways. The restaurant opened to the right, and the seafood was on display in a room to the left. And oh what seafood! The separation was a wall of aquariums that stretched at least 50 feet down and turned for another 30 feet. In each were separate species available for your dining pleasure. There must have been almost 50 tanks of fish.
After settling at dinner table and having our wine prepared, the hostesses showed up with appetizers for the table. They were in two small square bowls, one with a mushroom looking treat and the other a brown long scallop-like treat. I made the mistake of asking what it was! I usually just eat. But I was informed the darker item was duck kidney and the other was from the stomach of something. Well, anyway they were pretty good! A pickled flavor in an octopus-like texture, but tasty. Everyone dove at them like it was going to be a chopstick war! They were popular.
The evening got better then. Miss Vicky, my associate I work with so much, asked me if I wanted to go see the fish tanks. Little was I to know how much more there was behind the wall of tanks. We entered a room much like a fish market. On the left was a barbecue section with hanging chickens and other meats. I didn’t ask this time.
Down the middle, behind the aquariums were three rows of fish tanks. There were shrimp of about three varieties. An attendant kept grabbing some that escaped to the floor. There were at least three kinds of crab, all banded individually so that they didn’t attack each other. There were dozens of small mussel varieties. There were scallops and lobsters. Oh were there lobsters! Huge lobsters with their antenna reaching for you as you pass. The last row was fish on ice. There were a multitude of varieties and then many in plastic wraps. I think they were a dried variety. The attendant told me the long package was snakes. I didn’t look any closer.
As we rounded to return to the entry, I noticed one of the outside tanks had a big school of long creatures. Miss Vicky immediately noticed my look and informed me that was the snakes, but that they were snakefish: “Actually quite tasty, but too many bones.”
What a display. I thought of my good friend Edna Morris, the former president of Red Lobster. She would have loved this. She has told me of her shopping trips for fish around the world, and with her culinary interests, this would have been a special treat. Of course, I still wonder how she ended up selling frog legs for Red Lobster and now other chains. Heck, she couldn’t even cut up her frog in Mr. Banks 9th grade biology class. I had to do it as her lab partner! She still owes me.
The fish made the night unique! Why did I forget my camera!! Dinner was special too, but it was somewhat anticlimactic after that. We had family style dinner with chicken (with the head peering out the side of the bowl, of course), a pork dish, a couple of fish dishes, greens, a special scallop preparation, and steamed shrimp. The shrimp were divine. I just ripped off the shrimp heads and decided not to try them again. I ate enough shrimp heads back in my days in Japan. All was topped off with some good dim sum for a wonderful dining experience.
We even toured a little of Dongguan City. We were near the new square patterned after Tiammenen, with a People’s Library, and a People’s Musuem among the government buildings. We saw a beautiful pagoda-like entry to the old city. We saw streets as active as most in Hong Kong. We saw department stores or “malls” that were huge and brightly lit. And………… we saw the WalMart Supercenter!! I saw WalMart of Dongguan. What a busy place. Unlike most in the States, it occupied a large department store setting. I have to get back.
And next time I’ll take my camera!!
Humidity is getting worse
Just when I thought the humidity couldn’t get any worse, it started raining.
And raining!
And raining!
It’s been pretty non-stop now for a couple of days.
The thunderstorms were so strong last night, most dogs would have been cowering under beds for hours.
Never heard such strong thunder for so long.
We haven’t even had TV for days. The antenna keeps getting “knocked out by lightning”. Just think of all the interesting documentaries I’m missing about insects and ancient civilizations. At least I bought a Nicholas Sparks paperback when I was last in Hong Kong. It’s a little too sappy for me, but I needed the change from The Kite Runner by Khaled Hosseini. It was a great book, which my sister had given me in Denver. Now I needed a diversion of style, that I think Sparks provides with his descriptions of Swansboro, and Boone, NC.
Anyway, this morning they even had to put old wooden pallets out in the drive from the “hotel” for us to cross the standing water to the plant. Thankfully, an umbrella was included with my goodies that came with my recent purchase of golf clubs. Otherwise, I would be still trying to dry.
And Decca does a smart thing, but it can be intimidating. In almost every room in the plant is a large digital readout of the temperature, humidity, and EMC or equilibrium moisture content. (I won’t get into EMC, but it is important in production of furniture to keep that around 6-8%.) Well, anyway, the tough thing is, that those readouts are also a constant reminder about how hot and humid it is. Seldom do you see the temperature below 30°C, and the relative humidity hovers between 90 – 95% in almost every building.
I haven’t been feeling so well lately either. Not sure if it is still the remnants of walking 18 holes of golf Sunday, or something I ate on Monday. Nonetheless, I’ve been in the bathroom a lot lately. I won’t get into details.
Feeling better today, but a little weak from not eating as much lately. This humidity isn’t helping either. I guess the ducks on the roof are enjoying. Not so sure that the chickens in the next pen are enjoying it.
Zhang Wedding
Many of you saw the pictures from my original visit here back in March.
I had the privilege to be invited to the wedding of the son of a plant manager here at Decca.
I have included a link to those pictures in the “Links” section on the right.
I will also post it here:
http://www.dotphoto.com/go.asp?l=abrysoninchina&p=1A55&AID=2529094 This is the start of another attempt to get info posted from China. This site, dotphoto.com allows posting of albums on the web. I will try to copy many of my photos there for easy access and to combine in groups.
Enjoy!
Camdour Harbor Golf Club
Tall Greek statues of warriors and goddesses stood on the precipices of the tall gated entry. Frescoes of more goddesses filled the stucco walls between the two large entryways. This didn’t seem like the entry to a golf club. But below some Chinese lettering it read “Camdour Harbor Golf Club” in unmistakable English. And “harbor”? I didn’t even think we were near water. Inland about an hour didn’t seem like the right place for a “harbor”. But then later on the third hole was what looked at least something like a boathouse on the lake surrounding the back nine (played first). But then again why was there a Dutch windmill on the boathouse? I continue to be amazed at the Chinese just decorating with whatever they have seen that looks interesting. It doesn’t matter how completely out of place it may be. You find Greek statues and windmills at golf courses and cherubs at swimming pools. You got me.
To the golf club Here I was: 7:15 AM on Sunday, 12 June 2005 at the Camdour Harbour Golf Club. My driver had been a little late, but we had traversed the two or three miles pretty quickly. I did wish I gotten in the back seat of the van. About ½ mile from the course, he just pulled through a gap in the concrete median of the highway, and pulled right into oncoming traffic! As I had flinched and tried to look down instead of at the oncoming lorries, he just nonchalantly pulled on across to the shoulder and drove head into the traffic to the club entrance. The cars, trucks, and mopeds, just honked and pulled over to make room for us. I’m sure he knew that the next best opening was over a mile down the road, so I guess this was a shortcut. I would just as soon have waited!
The clubhouse As we pulled up to the clubhouse, I was more than a little apprehensive. Here I was finally ready to play golf. I was itching to try these new clubs. But I didn’t know what I was doing. My driver, Huaping, was from Decca. He was my only connection to a known world. It was a new world – this new furniture employer – but it was my company now. And Huaping was getting my clubs out to leave me all alone here. What was I thinking. Would anyone else speak English? The attendant gave me a paper stub as a receipt for the clubs. How did I know what to do? What was proper procedure or protocol in this environment? At a golf club in China.
Huaping pulled away. I started into the clubhouse. “Welcome”. Oh did I need to hear that! Someone spoke English!! She even told me she could accept my credit card. But that the cost would be 620RMB since it was a Holiday. I had heard that it had been some holiday recently, but it had not been enough of a holiday for the plant to close.
“Where ya from?” Did my ears deceive me again? That sounded Southern. I turned to be face to face with an elderly gentleman, who was very American. When I mentioned I was from North Carolina, he said he was practically a neighbor from Florida. His name was Herb. He soon introduced his son Ray, and young grandson, Mike. They were on their way to the practice range back near the course entry. The course was “pretty good – very good back nine”. But they were leaving. Shucks. Coulda enjoyed conversing in English while I played. (Little was I to know, I would hear plenty! Just not Southern.)
So back to the hostess. She introduced me to the staff of other lady hostesses. There must have been six in this small clubhouse. But labor is cheap. Got to remember that. Always a lot of employees. Anyway, soon she asked for my “paper”. I shrugged my shoulders, and she said again said “white paper”. Suddenly I realized she was talking about the stub I had been given for my clubs. I fished it from my pocket and provided to her. She marked the numbers from the stub into a vinyl folder about the size of a scorecard, with a key hanging from it and a large number 67 on the outside. (I later figured the key and number was for a locker that I didn’t use). This was my receipt book. Then she told me I could go play the course and for me to head outside to proceed. So I left the one employee that spoke at least some fair English.
At the curb outside the clubhouse, the attendant that had taken my clubs took the stub again and retrieved my clubs from a shed. A red cart pulled up. It was one of the larger styles of golf carts, with two rows of seats in the back. As the attendant tied my clubs on the rear, he motioned for me to have a seat on one of the ripped vinyl bench seats. I got in by myself and off we went.
The caddy shack We drove down a street near some California style homes. They were big for China, and looked okay, but rather unkempt. Grass was tall, and I had to look twice to decide if they were occupied. They seemed to be, but not with much outside activity. At least I didn’t see outdoor lawn furniture on any decks or porches. Probably too hot.
And then we passed a large contemporary-style statue of a pigeon or a dove. It must have stood two stories tall – very white and looked like it was made of some type of stucco. You got me again. I have no idea why it was there. Sure …………. a white pigeon goes with windmills and Greek goddesses.
Soon we arrived at a small building with ladies in pink outfits running all around. The driver motioned for something from me. I realized he was looking at the folder, so I handed it to him, and he motioned for one of the ladies. I soon found out she was to be my caddy. We were at the caddy shack. She was Caddy #107.
She was one of the prettiest young women I had seen in China. And her beauty improved through the round. She constantly smiled. Something I find very rare here. Most Chinese seldom look or smile, unless they tell a joke. But Caddy #107, my caddy, had a constant smile. On her nametag was a picture of her with her hair down over her shoulders. It could have been a picture of a Chinese movie star. She was that pretty.
She grabbed up the bag and said “Hello”. That word did wonders for my apprehension. Yes! …… Surely they must have assigned a caddy to me that spoke English. So I asked: “Do you speak English”. She quickly waved and shook her head as she rolled out some Chinese comments. Shucks. The wave of apprehension came back in a wave. I would have really loved it if she understood English. She didn’t.
She put the bag on a two wheeled pull cart. I said I was “Gene Bryson”. After I repeated some hand motions to show that I was telling her my name, she pointed to herself and told me what I assume was her name. I have no idea how to pronounce it. I later learned that Caddy #107 was Zhang Sheng Jie. I’m sure everyone knows how to say that.
She proceeded to the front of the caddy shack and handed my receipt folder to the attendant. They conversed, and the attendant handed back the folder and gave Caddy #107 a white, helmet-style hat. Big with a long brim. Why did she need a helmet?
To the course And we’re off. Caddy # 107 rounded the building and headed down a path. I figured I should follow. I could see the course now, and a group was teeing off up ahead. The last golfer in the group hit a poor shot about 60 yards into a swamp like area. Then they darted off the tee.
But Caddy #107 was quickly pulling forward and speaking fast to the group. My suspicions were correct. She was asking that we join them. There were only three golfers in the group. I could see the gentlemen shake in agreement rather reluctantly. But Caddy #107 had been insistent, and soon she was pulling out my driver and pointing to me to take the tee as the group moved to the side.
The first tee So here I was. Finally ready to play golf in China. I had had no practice. It had been almost six months since I had last played. I even had to bum tees from my new partners. They were really reluctant to have this big American join now. I didn’t even have golf tees. I had all the excuses, but no time to waste. I quickly took the tee, and …………. crushed a great drive! At least it was for me. So what if it went straight down the right side. At least it was away from the water on the left.
And we were off……
The ball had crossed a berm along the edge of the fairway and near a parallel hole. Caddy #107 quickly darted to the area as I pursued. She tracked down the ball just in the rough along the next fairway where another group was approaching. As I contemplated my next club and started to take position, she reached down and grabbed up my ball!! What was this?? As she uttered words I suddenly realized she sounded like the last female caddy I had had. It was in Japan in 1982 when I chanced a round of golf while I was working on a joint venture between Westinghouse and Okamura Furniture. That was my only other time to play golf in Asia. It was on the side of Mt. Fuji at the Fuji Ace Country Club. There, the caddy had laughed when she told me her name was “Fiji, like Ms. Fiji - the reigning Miss World”. Then she had proceeded to frequently raise her hands in a circle over her head for the rest of the round, as she smilingly yelled “OB”. Here #107 was saying the same thing: “OB”!
What? I dropped my shoulders and glanced around. Why was this out of bounds? It was between holes. Water was on the other side. Evidently someone didn’t want golfers crossing into the next fairway and had decided OB markers was the best way to prevent it, instead of doing like they did when they planted that tall tree to block shots down an adjacent fairway at the US Open years ago.
So Caddy #107 was dropping my ball back toward the fairway and handing me another club. I glanced at a 7 iron she handed me and felt like I might need a 6 instead. I should have listened to my own instincts. The ball was well struck but headed for a sand trap to the right of the green. Soon I was to hear a chorus of English! A chorus that would repeat itself by the whole group of fellow golfers and the three caddies in unison, time and again over the next 18 holes: “Bunker!”
It was invented in an English country It’s always amazing, this great game of golf. For whatever reason, I guess since golf started in English countries, the words used round the world to describe golf terms are always expressed in English. Here I was in China. And my golfing partners, and the caddies I was with for the next few hours, proceeded to use English to express every comment about the game, even though they never spoke English otherwise. On every hole you heard: “Good shot”. “ Nice ball”. “Water”. Never did you hear what would have been “good shot” in Cantonese or Mandarin. And of course, for almost every time I got near a green, you heard the same chorus: “Bunker!” I seemed to find a sand trap on almost every hole. I felt like I was back at Tanglewood’s sand desert. “Bunker!”
And the traps weren’t kind. Every one had a different texture. Maybe the first few were fair. But from then, you found hard, wet, standing water, raked, non-raked craters, and rocks. I should know. Everyone in our group kept yelling after I hit: “Bunker!”
Introductions I introduced myself when we finished the first hole to my fellow golfers. Two were senior gentleman in their late 50’s that hit the ball fairly well. The last was a more junior lanky Chinese man, who must have just taken up the game. I hope so. He hit very poorly. He was the golfer I had seen hit the poor shot off the first hole. Most of his drives were shorter than that 60-yard dart. He would hit and then run to his next shot only a few yards away trying to save time and evidently not upset his elder partners. The Chinese seem to be like that. Often they dart off in a jog to do something. Mention or ask for something, and as often as not, they take off in a run. Usually it’s in a quick-like dart of a run that looks like they are trying to show their interests in doing something fast as a request for forgiveness. So for much of the day, the younger golfer would hit and then quickly run to hit again.
All the golfers spoke fairly well in greeting me as “Mr. Gene”. I heard their names, and tried repeating them as I was introduced. I’m not doing well with this language. I couldn’t repeat another name, five minutes later.
The shorter gentleman was hitting pretty well, and scored pretty well on the first few holes. The other gentleman had a strong run on the back and scored well over a long stretch. The junior golfer…. Let’s just say he kept running to his next shot.
The scorecard On the third hole, I noticed my caddy had a scorecard. I had forgotten to get one. I had also forgotten to buy tees, and had to bum those off my new partners, as soon as I met them on the first hole. Probably not a good first impression. Of course, they gave me two plastic tees too. From what I could tell, that is all they play with over here. And they hunt them down on the tee like they are made of gold. Thankfully, I only broke one of the two I was given. So I made it through the round.
Anyway, as I was saying I noticed Caddy #107’s scorecard had a layout description. So I motioned about the hole, and she quickly pulled it out to show me the layout of the hole bending in a right dogleg of about 380 yards. It was then that I noticed it was hole #12. I thought we were on #3. Evidently we had teed off the back nine first, but there were no markers. Occasionally you would see a nice layout marker on a large rock by a tee, but not very often.
Frequently during the round, Caddy #107 would pull out the card and show me the layout. Or when I would arrive at a ball, she would quickly write 150 or 160 or whatever for the yardage to the pin. Then she would hand me a club. I was usually short. I think she thought I was a stronger hitter. Everyone in unison: “Bunker!”
It hit me About the fifth hole, it hit me! Have I mentioned before that it is humid here? Well, it may have been early in the day, but the humidity was up to its usual 95% plus level by 8:00 AM. In fact, I had come out the door of my hotel room the other morning and as I pushed the lever handle closed, I noticed it was very wet. As I thought how odd for someone to be cleaning at that hour, it hit me that the metal was not wet from cleaning. The cold air on the other side of the door, inside my room, had passed through the metal of the handle to the hall side where it was extremely humid, and condensation had formed to the point of dripping. Now that’s wet.
Where was I? Oh yea: It hit me! The humidity was unbearable already. It was only the fifth hole. I hadn’t played golf since December in the mountains of North Carolina. There I had ridden in a wonderful little gas-powered golf cart through hills around Lake Lure in late fall. But here, I was walking after a little white ball in the heat and humidity of Southern China in June! Was I crazy!
My associates at Decca who had recommended this course, told me to be sure to wake up and play early. They said I didn’t want to play after noon. It would be “totally unbearable then”. Well, my friends, it was already unbearable!
I had asked them about carts. They had snickered and said you had to reserve one of the course’s three carts at least a week in advance. I knew I could walk the 18 holes. I kept telling myself that: Keep walking.
My shirt was already dripping wet. My shorts were catching up. My golf partners were wiping the sweat from their heads with very nice towels they had brought with them. I was envious. I hadn’t thought of that either. I can walk 18 holes. I kept telling myself that. Keep walking.
At least the course was relatively flat. But Caddy #107 was fast and quick. It was tough keeping up with her. By the seventh or eighth hole, her shirt was wet. And Caddy #107, like all caddies, was wearing a long sleeve golf shirt and pants like rain suit pants. I know, you figure she was in better shape than me. Yea, I guess so. But unlike the other caddies, Caddy #107 had a helmet. Why did my caddy have a helmet? She had to be hot! She did keep fanning her face with the scorecard. Keep walking.
I kept thinking about the old golf joke. How’d it go: “hit and drag ole’ George. Hit and drag. Hit and drag.” I felt like that was what I was doing – hitting and dragging myself. Keep walking.
About the seventh hole, I found a bench. It was the first time I had sat for what seemed like hours. Unfortunately, I had to hit second, and could only catch my breath on the bench while two of my partners hit their shots. Oh was it hot! Keep walking.
And this was probably not one of the hottest days to be expected. In fact, we did have an occasional wind. Only for seconds though. Oh did it feel good! Keep walking.
Thunder! Oh no! Now what. Did I mention it was humid? Well, humid enough for some clouds to form and threaten. My partners motioned in the distance and mumbled something in Chinese. Again, I understood nothing. It didn’t repeat again. I was half hoping it would poor rain enough for us to seek shelter and rest! Keep walking.
On another hole, I found a rock painted with one of the few layouts of a hole. It was under a tree, and was convenient to sit near a tee box. I was amazed at how few places there were to sit. Only a couple of concrete benches were on the course, and few other options existed. As I sat there on the rock, Caddy #107 said something and pointed to the tree leaves over me. She swatted at something on a limb nearby. I never did understand what she was concerned about, but I had no comfort in staying there then. Oh well, keep walking!
Course activity The few places to sit seemed odd. I’m not sure if it had anything to do with the poverty of the area, but there were guards scattered about the course, and it was not unusual to have peasants cross with bars across their shoulders and large bags or buckets hanging from each side in balance. The other golfers paid no attention, and just hit on. We even had a moped race up one fairway past us.
As we walked off one green we passed through what seemed like the underpass of a highway. It was a large concrete tunnel, evidently built for a road to pass overhead. Only there was no road. Not even a road in sight. Just this underpass all by itself out here in the middle of the course. It didn’t even go through a berm or pass of a hill. It just stood by itself in between a green and tee. You got me. I have no idea why it was there.
And of course, the underpass had floral paintings on the inside walls. Not Greek goddesses or Dutch windmills. Just another mix in the myriad of design elements. Not much on consistency of a theme here. That was for certain.
There was constant motion and chatter, too. I certainly did not expect Augusta on Sunday in March, but this was frequently rather disconcerting. My three golf partners shared two caddies. I had Caddy #107. So there were seven in our group. And the caddies were in constant motion. They were being efficient to support and help, but that didn’t mean they would stand still while you hit. Not exactly what I am used to the U.S. But it was okay. Keep walking.
Nourishment!! It’s food!! Rice! Who cares! It’s food! I bit into one of the items. It looked a little like a dim sum treat. But it was much bigger than any I had had before. And, oh was it good!!! My caddy had suddenly showed up with little plastic bags of these treats! It was about our 12th hole. The hole we were playing was near the caddy shack when she had disappeared. As she re-appeared with the bags, I thought she had golf balls in them. They were white ball-like features. Was she gonna try to sell me golf balls? But no, when she handed me a bag, I realized these were larger than golf balls, and soft, and warm.
I was hungry too. I think she knew that. I soon realized that the prolonged conversation we had on the last hole, was evidently her asking if I wanted her to buy these treats at the caddy shack. She had pulled up beside me and launched a long conversation. She had gone on and on as we walked between shots. I repeated her comments: “Lei Mon. Lei Mon.” I had no idea what she was talking about. But I’m glad she had gone on and insisted on the purchase of these treats. I was hungry!
Leaving early from the “hotel”, I had only had a pack of crackers before departing. These treats were a lifesaver. Here I had been in China, I have to come to a golf course to get the best treats I've had in five weeks! Between the heat, humidity, and my walking further than I had in a long time: I was hungry!
The second treat was even better than the first. How do I describe it. It was like a ball of dough and partially baked. It still had a doughy texture. But the surprise was in the middle. It had a filling like apple butter!! Apple butter!! Oh was it good!
I moaned and ate! Moaned and ate! Soon the three caddies all pulled up alongside as we strode up the fairway. They were all giggling and laughing as I moaned with each bite. I think they all knew I needed the food! Did I say: “I was hungry.”
Later, when I finished my round I headed back into the clubhouse and sat down in the café. The menu read club sandwich. I should have looked for “Lei Mon” again. The club sandwich did have bread and tomato. That was about the only resemblance to any club sandwich I knew. The meat slices were less than desirable. And between was fried egg!?! Don’t ask me. I’ve found that before. Fried egg in sandwiches, when no egg was ever advertised as being part of the sandwich.
The big American
On the about the 15th hole as we stood off the tee after I had hit my tee shot, Caddy #107 motioned with her hand to my body. She giggled something to the other caddies. I realized she was motioning from the top of her head to my shoulder. That was her height to mine. I didn’t mention to her that she was standing on top of the tee box, and that I was off the side, probably another 4 inches lower. I stand a little taller than most everyone here.
Water Water! Oh yes!! Water on my face!! Oh that feels good. Sooo good. It is the last hole. It’s sprinkling on us. The raindrops are infrequent but refreshing! Unfortunately, it doesn’t last long. I would just as soon have rain now. I’m drenched in sweat, and need the coolness of a shower.
My partners all headed to the showers when we got back. I should have never played my first round by myself. I really didn’t know what I was doing. The common procedure here is evidently that a locker is provided to change and wash after a round. Oh well. I played golf in China.
I just headed for the café for air conditioning and a sandwich. But I did retreat to the swimming pool back at the hotel in the afternoon. Oh was that refreshing!
Par
A par! I made a par! Okay, it took a few holes. It wasn’t until the next to last hole. I thought I had hit another bunker. But I didn’t hear the usual chorus of “Bunker” after my tee shot. Actually I had ended up just short of the 190-yard par 3. A nice chip to within five feet, and Caddy #107 was mumbling something that was unmistaken to be “make the par”. She had motioned to hit hard and straight. I had been short all day. These greens were slower than the frog hair at a municipal course in the states. But I rapped it straight into the back of the hole. A chorus of “Good putt” rang out from my partners. Caddy #107 raised her hand for me to “high five”. It was nice. I needed that.
I don’t even know what I scored. Maybe Caddy #107 put the scorecard in my bag. I’ll have to look. It wasn’t pretty. But it wasn’t bad. The greens were terrible. I made a lot of bogeys. But the new clubs were great, even though I seldom got to a green in regulation. And with the greens so slow, I couldn’t make a putt fall.
Off the 18th
When we finished we were back near the caddy shack. My partners all said “thank you” and shook hands as we departed the last hole. That was about the extent of their English – besides the golf terms, of course.
Caddy #107 helped me fish a reasonable tip from my wallet. I was happy to pay. I think it ended up being about $12US for her caddy fee. Try to get a caddy for those services in the States. And Caddy #107 was a joy to be around! Her smile throughout the day was refreshing.
Cool air! I feel cool air! Caddy #107 had motioned me into a bus off the last hole. She put my clubs inside too. As I sat down, I felt a rush of cool air! Oh did that feel good! The air conditioning was blowing in my face. It really was not so cool, but far cooler than the surrounding air had been all morning. Oh did it feel good!
I said goodbye to Caddy #107 there. Don’t know that I will ever see her again. I think she saved my life with the food earlier on this day. Her smile was infectious! And she was great at finding errant golf balls and lining putts. On every hole, she quickly ran to the ball on the green to mark, retrieve, and wash. Then she would replace when it was my turn, carefully aligning the ball marking on the putt line, and then she would turn to me to wave in the direction of the break. If I could have only putted better.
We rode the bus back to the clubhouse. I didn’t want to get out of the cool air. When I did, I experienced another unique feature of Chinese golf. As my partners exited the bus, they split to each side of the entry to the clubhouse to what looked like some kind of cattle feed station. I didn’t know what it was. There was a spigot to a trough of water in the rear, and orange slim hoses laying over the front. As each partner grabbed up a hose, I suddenly realized what this was for: cleaning your golf shoes. The hoses had a spray nozzle at the end. With high pressure, everyone immediately started blowing off the bottom of his shoes into the trough. Today no one needed the water or brushes in the water to clean. The high pressure of air was sufficient. It was certainly different than most shoe brushes anchored to the ground at the entry to most pro shops in the States Most of them even look like a porcupine or other animal. Here you get high-pressure air.
I played golf in China
I had been told Camdour Harbor wasn’t one of the better golf courses in the area, but was nearby and reasonable for its green fees. And it was. The layout was rather nice. It did traverse around a lake on the back nine. Of course, by now you know there were many “Bunkers!” The mix of Greek gods, windmills, and pigeon statues was odd.
But the greens, oh they were bad. Balls bounced off to the back repeatedly since they were so hard. And I rapped putts harder than I had ever remembered, but seldom did my ball even get to the hole.
My partners just kept saying “Good shot!” or “Bunker”. Not much conversation otherwise. I played for four and a half hours without a conversation I could understand. In total it costs around $100US. That included several sleeves of Nike balls (only lost about three – Caddy #107 was good at finding ‘em.), the golf, lunch, several soft drinks, the food on the course, and a locker I never used. And the new clubs were great. The putter was certainly different than any I had ever had before, but the greens were so bad, I couldn’t blame it on the putter.
Oh well, I have played golf in China!! And it was memorable! Now I wonder why my caddy had a helmet?
Week Five
Here I am, in my fifth week in China. I played golf yesterday. I’m working on that report. It may be a little long – a lot to tell!! What a day! Look for that posting soon.
Some miscellaneous points:
- No apartment yet – somehow I missed out on the one I first wanted, and now must wait two more weeks for next one I liked.
- I’m one of the few managers here this week – most everyone is in Chicago for NEOCON and Grand Opening of our new Decca Contract showroom there.
- Mondays are usual calm. It is still Sunday in the States, so there is usually no email from U.S. associates like most other mornings.
- Business cards arrived last week – see my title to right under my profile. I included phone number from the U.S. too.
- Keep finding new areas or rooms here at Decca facility. I’ll post some pics of some new areas I recently visited.
- We even have a machine to grind and compose dust into log-like blocks so we can then burn for fuel.
- Power is frequently off to residential areas two days a week here. Hope I don’t need to get to my apartment on 16th floor when that happens. Here at Decca we have diesel generators that kick in around 7:00 AM.
- To get to this blog regularly it is best just to paste www.abrysoninchina.blogspot.com in your browser, then add it as a bookmark or favorite so you can then return to check from time to time. I post most days.
- To see pictures better, double click on any for an enlargement.
- If you want to be on email of postings, let me know.
- Heat is rising! It’s already humid! Have I mentioned that?
This is on the fifth story of the "hotel". And yes, this is where we often get lunch and dinner! It is one of two chicken pens on site. The other has many roosters that are too near my room to sleep when they are crowing in the mornings.
Also on the fifth floor of the "hotel". More lunch!! Yes, and dinner. And yes, that is a pond for the ducks and geese up here on top of the hotel!
Here our gardener tends to the garden on top of the "hotel" (above the five story building). We get many of our vegetables from these gardens, including tomatoes, grapes, corn, and local versions of squash.
Corn on the roof of the "hotel" for meals. Note on the roof of the next Decca building is another vegetable garden, even bigger than this one.
